We set out for our Memorial Day Weekend backpacking adventure on Friday afternoon. We were apprehensive that forecasts of possible thunderstorms and potential flash-floods might ruin the trip. Our apprehension increased when we the saw the ominous clouds that hung over the San Rafael Swell.
The San Rafael Swell reef protruding from the desert floor
Ominous clouds and (it turns out) the wrong road We tried to reach our trailhead and make camp before dark, but after a late start and a wrong turn the sun set before we got where we were going. We pulled over to spot with a fire pit just off the side of the dirt road and quickly set up our tent before the darkness and rain arrived. We cooked our beans and rice in the pitch dark and the rain, then retired to our snug little tent to eat it.
Our first campsite
It rained all night long, and in the morning it was still raining. Some water had gotten into our tent, wetting not only our tent but some of our clothing and our blanket as well. It was cold, our gear was wet, it was 6 a.m., and there was mud on everything. We tossed our went tent and beds into the car and took off, concerned that the dirt roads would become impassable mud bogs for our little Hyundai.
We couldn't imagine spending a whole weekend in the cold rain with wet gear and a wet tent. Before giving up completely and heading home, we stopped by Goblin Valley, which CA had never seen before. We were surprised to be the only car in the parking lot on a Memorial Day Weekend Saturday. It seemed we had the whole valley to ourselves.
Goblin Valley
In the relative cleanliness of the parking lot we were at least able to roll up our bed mats and pack our wet tent into its bag. After a week of planning our wilderness trek, I felt like a total failure for turning home already. We didn't feel very "hard-core," and that was painful.
But before we set out for home, my good little sport CA let me at least try to find the trail head to Wild Horse Window and hike about a little bit to see what there was to see. We found it easily, and I hiked about in my yellow rain poncho and investigated the trail a bit while CA stayed in the car to keep warm from the cold drizzle. That's when things got fun.
Can you spot me in my yellow poncho, scouting out the trail? Wild Horse Window is in the upper right.Leaving the car, I walked around through the gullies and washes and then onto the trail up the rock of San Rafael Reef toward Wild Horse Window, and I started to get excited. The scenery was thrilling and I warmed up fast. I saw a place where an overhanging cliff made a dry spot on the ground, big enough to fit our tiny little tent. Watching (and photographing) my adventures from the car, as the morning chill started losing its edge, CA decided to venture out and join me. I showed her the dry spot, and we decided to stick it out another night. We felt a new sense of hard-coreness returning, and it felt nice. We returned to the car, packed up our packs, and set out.
Can you spot our little tent nestled under a dry cliff? (Taken from the trail on the Reef)
We set up our tent in the little dry spot without the rain fly and let the air blow through it dry it out, then set out on a fun adventure. The day become comfortably warm, and the clouds kept it from getting hot. The constant slow drizzle actually wound up creating a magical day. Crystal-clear water flowed down the Reef in rivulets and waterfalls and collected in hundreds of fairy pools all along our trail.
Wild Horse CanyonStone, waterfalls, and fairy pools
CA in Wild Horse Window (click here for better pics by other people)We turned from the trail to explore the mouth of Wild Horse Canyon, then hiked up the back of the reef to Wild Horse Window.
We returned to a dry tent in time to make a leisurely dinner of Tuna Helper in the evening light and settle down in the lee of our cliff for a long, dry, and undisturbed night.
Surprisingly, Sunday morning dawned sunny and blue-skied. We packed our swimsuits and a lunch and went for a short day trip up Wild Horse Canyon to a pool of water at the mouth of a grotto that we had found the day before. The water was cold but refreshing, and we made friends with a pair of frogs that lived in the pool. We sunned ourselves on the bare rock and ate a lunch of Macaroni and Cheese with dried beef.
A picture of our pool and sun lounge, taken the day before when it was raining
We returned to camp just in time for a big black thunderhead to roll in from the south. We stayed dry in the shelter of our cliff as the rain and hail poured down and the lightning flashed. The heavy storm lasted for about 20 minutes then turned into a regular drizzly rain as the thunderhead moved on northward up the Swell. We lay in the tent and listened to the rain outside. Soon there was a loud rushing sound which grew louder and louder until the sound of knocking, crashing boulders joined it. We emerged from our tent to see that a flash flood had turned the dry wash near our campsite into a violent torrent of muddy water and crashing boulders, about 5 feet deep. We weren't concerned; we were dry and safe, and the flood was exciting to witness. A stranger on the opposite side of the the wash wasn't as fortunate--he was stranded on that side while his hiking companion stood on our side.
Within a couple of hours the water level had a dropped a couple of feet and the man was able to make it across. The water continued to flow all afternoon and evening and through that night. In the night we heard some loud crashing sounds as chunks of rock broke off of a cliff and crashed to the ground not far away. By morning the wash was dry again, but the landscape had changed noticeably. We packed up our things and went home, content that we were sufficiently hard-core after all.
One of the funnest parts of our wilderness adventure was the wildlife. Over three days and nights we saw five frogs, four pronghorns, a stink bug, so
me crows, and bunch of naughty little lizards. How foolish do you think I feel for telling CA she could never catch a lizard?